July 24, 2026 · 10 min read

Tour du Mont Blanc Huts: Complete Guide to TMB Accommodation 2026

The complete guide to Tour du Mont Blanc huts — every TMB refuge in order, with elevations, capacities, and booking tips. Plan your 10-day circuit for 2026.

The Tour du Mont Blanc is the most popular long-distance mountain trek in the world. Around 20,000 walkers complete the full circuit each year, and many more attempt sections. The route circles the Mont Blanc massif through France, Italy, and Switzerland — roughly 170 km, 10,000 metres of cumulative ascent, and 10–12 days for most parties. The hut system along the TMB is what makes it accessible: a chain of staffed refuges, gîtes d'étape, and rifugios positioned to break each stage at a natural stopping point.

This guide covers every hut along the standard TMB route in order, with elevations, capacities where known, booking advice, and links to country pages. Whether you are planning the full circuit or picking up the TMB for a single week, this is the accommodation reference you need.

TMB Overview

The TMB starts and ends in Chamonix (1,035m) and is typically walked clockwise — the direction described in this guide. The route crosses three countries:

  • France: Chamonix valley to the Col de la Seigne (approx. stages 1–3)
  • Italy: Courmayeur and the Val Ferret (approx. stages 4–5)
  • Switzerland: La Fouly, Champex-Lac, and Trient (approx. stages 6–8)
  • France: Chamonix return via Col de Balme (stages 9–11)

Total distance: approximately 170 km. Total elevation gain: 10,000 m. Typical completion: 10–12 days. The standard route follows the GR TMB waymarks (red and white blazes in France and Switzerland, red and white in Italy).

TMB Huts in Order: Stage by Stage

Stage 1–2: Chamonix to Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Most walkers begin from Les Houches (a short bus ride from Chamonix) and reach Les Contamines-Montjoie at the end of a long first day. The town has hotels and gîtes but no mountain hut. The key overnight on this section is Refuge de Miage (1,559m), a privately run refuge in a beautiful glacial bowl above Les Contamines, or alternatively the village gîtes in Les Contamines itself.

Stage 2 ends at Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,443m, 99 beds) — the first high-altitude hut on the TMB and the gateway from the French to the Italian side of the massif. The climb from Les Contamines gains 1,200m over 6–7 hours; the reward is a truly remote mountain refuge above the treeline. Run by the Savoie alpine club, it offers full half-board service and fills quickly in July and August. Book well in advance for peak season.

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Stage 3: Croix du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux / Refuge des Mottets

From the Croix du Bonhomme, the route descends to Les Chapieux (a hamlet in the Beaufortin) before climbing to Refuge des Mottets (1,870m), the last French hut before the Italian border crossing. Les Mottets is a traditional Savoyard farmhouse-style refuge tucked into a hanging valley below the Col de la Seigne. It operates as a gîte d'étape with dormitory beds and half-board. This is one of the quieter stops on the TMB — most walkers push through or stay in Les Chapieux — which makes it a genuinely restful overnight.

Stage 4: Col de la Seigne into Italy — Rifugio Elisabetta

The Col de la Seigne (2,516m) marks the crossing into Italy and the start of the route's Italian section. The descent leads to Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini Montanaro (2,194m, 77 beds) — the first Italian rifugio on the TMB and one of its most dramatically positioned. The hut sits directly below the Glacier du Miage with views across the Val Vény toward the Italian face of Mont Blanc. Half-board here means a proper Italian dinner: pasta or polenta, secondi, and local wine. Book directly by phone or email, ideally 4–6 weeks ahead for August.

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Stage 5: Val Vény — Rifugio Walter Bonatti

The high variant of Stage 5 — the classic TMB line — traverses the ridge above the Val Vény before descending to Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,030m) in the Italian Val Ferret. Named after the Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti, this rifugio has 70+ beds and is one of the most beloved stops on the entire TMB. The view south toward the Grand Jorasses is extraordinary, and the food matches the setting. Reservations are essential in July and August — this hut is fully booked weeks in advance at peak season. An alternative on this stage for those who want a night in Courmayeur is to detour via the town and pick up the TMB again the following morning at Rifugio Bertone (1,980m).

Stage 5 Alternative: Rifugio Elena

Those taking the lower valley route through the Italian Val Ferret often stop at Rifugio Elena (2,055m, 127 beds) rather than Bonatti. Elena is larger and slightly easier to book, making it a useful backup if Bonatti is full. The views are different — less dramatic in the immediate surroundings, but the valley itself is beautiful and the access is less exposed in bad weather.

Stage 6: Grand Col Ferret into Switzerland

The Grand Col Ferret (2,537m) is the second major border crossing on the TMB — this time from Italy into Switzerland. The descent leads to the Swiss Val Ferret and the cluster of accommodation around La Fouly (1,593m). La Fouly is a small resort village with hotels and a campsite; there is no mountain hut in the strict sense but several gîtes and hotels serve TMB walkers. It makes a comfortable low-elevation overnight before the next day's climb.

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Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex-Lac

The stage from La Fouly to Champex-Lac (1,466m) is one of the more moderate days on the TMB — a valley walk through Swiss farmland and forest, gaining and losing modest elevation. Champex-Lac is a genuine mountain lake resort with several hotels, a hostel, and the Auberge de la Bourgeat, a popular overnight for TMB walkers. This is a social stage: many groups converge at Champex, making it one of the liveliest evenings on the circuit.

Stage 8: Champex to Trient — Fenêtre d'Arpette Variant

The classic route from Champex to Trient crosses the Col de la Forclaz (1,526m) via the Bovine variant — a gradual traverse through high pasture. The more demanding (and spectacular) variant crosses the Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665m), a high rocky col with views across the Trient glacier. Both routes converge at Trient (1,279m), a small Swiss village with the Hôtel-Restaurant du Glacier and several gîtes. Advance reservation in Trient is advisable in August — the village has limited capacity.

Stage 9: Trient to Chamonix Valley — Refuge du Col de Balme

The penultimate stage crosses back into France via the Col de Balme (2,191m). Refuge du Col de Balme (2,191m, 60 beds) sits directly on the col and marks the re-entry into France. It is a useful lunch stop or overnight for those who want to break the stage — the views west toward the Aiguilles Rouges and east toward the Swiss Val Ferret are outstanding from the terrace. Approach from Trient in 2–2.5 hours via the GR TMB.

Stage 10–11: Chamonix Finale — Lac Blanc and Refuge Albert 1er

The final French section offers two classic overnight options before returning to Chamonix. Refuge Albert 1er (2,704m, 140 beds) sits high on the north side of the massif and is one of the larger, better-equipped refuges on the TMB. It serves as the base for climbers heading toward the Aiguille du Tour but is equally popular with TMB finishers wanting a high-altitude last night before the descent to Chamonix. For those wanting a longer finish, the Lac Blanc area above the Chamonix valley offers several overnight options with extraordinary views across to Mont Blanc.

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Booking TMB Huts: Strategy and Timing

The TMB has a well-deserved reputation for being difficult to book at peak season. Follow these rules:

  • Book the French and Swiss sections first. The most popular huts — Croix du Bonhomme, Col de Balme, Champex accommodation — fill fastest. Italian rifugios are slightly easier to book but Bonatti and Elisabetta are exceptions.
  • For July and August, book 2–3 months ahead. This is not an exaggeration. July and August dates at Refuge Bonatti, Croix du Bonhomme, and Albert 1er can be gone within days of the booking window opening (usually January for the following summer).
  • September is dramatically easier. Huts are quieter, weather is typically stable, and last-minute bookings become possible. The crowds drop sharply after the first week of September.
  • Book half-board everywhere possible. Carrying 10 days of food on the TMB adds significant weight. Almost every hut on the route offers half-board (dinner and breakfast) — the cost is reasonable and the quality is generally high.
  • French huts. Many use the Refuges.info platform for online booking. Some accept bookings by email or phone only. Check individual hut websites.
  • Italian rifugios. Direct booking by phone or email. Most warden-managed rifugios along the TMB speak English. WhatsApp is increasingly accepted.
  • Swiss accommodation. Hotels and gîtes in La Fouly, Champex, and Trient each have their own booking systems. SAC huts (where applicable) book via the SAC website.

For full booking platform details and what to expect on arrival, see our Alpine hut booking guide.

TMB Hut Costs

Expect to budget roughly 50–80 EUR per person per night for half-board (dinner, bed, breakfast) across all three countries. Rough breakdown:

  • France: 55–75 EUR half-board at CAF refuges. Gîtes d'étape slightly less.
  • Italy: 60–80 EUR half-board at rifugios. CAI and AVS member discounts (30–50%) apply.
  • Switzerland: 65–85 CHF (~70–90 EUR) half-board. SAC member discount applies at affiliated huts.

A 10-day full circuit with half-board at every overnight comes to approximately 600–750 EUR in accommodation and meals. Transport to Chamonix (flights to Geneva, then bus) and any gear purchases are additional.

When to Hike the TMB

The TMB season runs from late June to late September. The sweet spots:

  • Late June: Snow on some high cols (Fenêtre d'Arpette, Col de la Seigne in cold years). Check conditions. Fewer crowds, some huts still opening their season.
  • July: Peak season begins. Ideal weather and long daylight. Book 2–3 months ahead.
  • August: Busiest month. The huts are full and the popular stages can feel like a procession. Still excellent hiking, but plan with care.
  • September (recommended): The best conditions on the TMB. Stable weather, clear skies, dramatically fewer walkers, and last-minute flexibility returns. The high cols are clear and the autumn colours starting in the lower valleys add to the experience.

Alternative Accommodation on the TMB

Mountain huts are not the only option. The TMB passes through or near several villages and towns that offer hotels and gîtes d'étape as alternatives:

  • Les Contamines-Montjoie (France): full range of hotels and gîtes — useful for the first night out of Chamonix
  • Courmayeur (Italy): the major town on the route, with hotels at all price points; a rest day here is easy to justify
  • La Fouly (Switzerland): small but comfortable hotels; popular with TMB walkers who want a private room
  • Champex-Lac (Switzerland): the most pleasant low-elevation overnight on the circuit, with lakeside hotels

Wild camping is technically permitted in some areas but restricted in others — check local regulations, particularly in France and Switzerland where the rules are stricter than Italy.

Browse the full France hut directory, Italy hut directory, and Switzerland hut directory to explore all accommodation options along and near the TMB route.

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